This week wasn’t the first time that the American Cathedral has welcomed an up-and-coming fashion designer. But it took the New York–based Christian Cowan to line it in fur and make it something like the late, great Limelight nightclub.
Freak Unique, as the designer called this first Paris outing, was an ode to another late great: Pete Burns, lead vocalist of Dead or Alive, a British queer icon whose anthem, “You Spin Me Right Round (Like a Record),” was sung by a fur-draped, diamond-decked Sam Smith at the show.
“I grew up coming to Paris, visiting museums with my parents, and it blew my mind seeing some of the world’s most amazing creations in person,” Cowan said, adding that those trips initially sparked his love of the arts (and Gothic architecture). Like designers all over the world, he dreamed of working in the City of Light to be in the room where it happens. Plus he wanted to tell the world he’s not just doing party dresses anymore, though there were plenty of those.
Despite the late hour and the dim lighting, the collection offered up a smattering of daywear, for example, a white cotton-poplin shirt with exaggerated, pointy collars and cuffs with an oversized peony over the collarbone. A pink and white tweed jacket seized on that same idea, managing to look sweet and saucy all at once. Denim got in on the act too, worked as a jacket, a miniskirt, and a big blossom of a halter top.
But Cowan’s base is out to have a good time, mainly after dark. For them, he rocked out on faux-fur ensembles: Like the crimped hair, it was a nod to Burns, done in “the most water-wise, sustainable faux fur” the designer could track down (found, ironically enough, in his native U.K.). Conical breasts were whorled in diamonds; satin evening gowns were spliced with lace or trimmed with feathers; and sequined knits showered stars—a favorite Cowan signature. Not everything went to plan—a fur ball of a getup tottered off-track—and the lineup could have used a seriously stiff edit, but it was all in good fun. A chance to make a statement and show of an expanding universe with a first bag, the Bella; a star-shaped makeup palette by Smashbox; and a snowball of a bridal gown.
Asked what excites him most about fashion right now, Cowan spoke of barriers being demolished. “I love how the revolution in gender expression is permeating beyond its original core audience,” he said. “I love how anyone can be their own superstar overnight as TikTok allows. There’s never been a time like this before.” Judging by the audience’s reaction, a few more stars just might have been born in Paris tonight. Time will tell.
