Prabal Gurung is troubled by the rightward swing of America. The overturning of Roe v. Wade has set a dangerous precedent for the rolling back of other rights. What comes next—the outlawing of gay marriage? Intolerance for other forms of difference? He is outspoken on this subject on his social media platforms and in real life. At a resort appointment a few months back, he put it succinctly: Don’t shrink. The message on the runway today was similar.
It started with the casting, which was something of a departure for him. Though he has long been a champion of inclusivity of all kinds, this show was “much more about characters,” he said. “And I gave them a scenario.” His models were at the club or a big night out at another kind of venue and they were dressed to be noticed. “You want to be seen,” he said, “not monitored.” But if this collection was a celebration of individuality, it was also about a sense of undoneness. Sleeves slipped off the shoulders of chiffon blouses, and trouser waistlines dipped to bumster levels. Lace bras and briefs peeked out from sheer blouses and pants, while tulle dresses provided glimpses of their bustier foundations.
Unfortunately, there’s such a thing as too undone, an impression that wasn’t helped here by the overbearing styling. Early on, Gurung built his reputation on making elegant, neatly constructed clothes, and over the years he has won over power women like Vice President Kamala Harris with his suits. He doesn’t need to repeat himself on the runway, but nor should he shrink from what he’s previously done so well.
