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It’s not that Christian Cowan has gotten more serious—far from it, in fact—but the young designer has certainly done some growing up. If his previous collections read like unfiltered fantasies of a fabulous life, his fall 2020 show tonight felt more tangible, probable, and real. Backstage, with his models lined up in their leopard jacquards and rhinestone firework-print minis, Cowan smirked and said two words: “Trunk! Show!”

What he meant was that he has spent the past year meeting and listening to his customers. His biggest lessons: They love his signature crystal mesh but hate that the crystals tend to fall off. They appreciate his over-the-top pieces, but need something functional to wear to a cocktail party. Everyone wants the mini-dresses to be made a little longer, except for clients in Italy who want them even shorter than on the runway. So he delivered. Cowan offered up sequin mesh, a more functional take on his bodystocking-like glitter. He expanded his blazers, suits, and sleeved minis. He made fur hoodies with Saga Furs and teensy sunglasses with Le Specs. His transparent little bags were filled with gold coins.

The message was that glamorizing oneself doesn’t only have to be a dream. The three movements in this show took on different ways that Cowan’s generation self mythologizes: through power (custom leopard jacquard); through celebration (fireworks, his answer to florals); and through flexing on Instagram (a tessellated Lamborghini jacquard in lime green and violet). We’re all busy showing up and showing off on Instagram, where Cowan’s clothes once lived. Now they can live happily in the real world too.